They came back to see the difference they had made. They came with cameras in the early 1960s that were still rare in the interior Borneo. These barely 20 years old teachers made the difference and so were those jungle kids in the years to follow. That rare cameras of the old days preserved photographs of people and places that are rare and valuable now. Thanks to the big guy, Llyod Jones. Tell me if you know those in the photographs.
If you work in a museum, you never know who will come and bring something old, including memories. In the last few days of 2008 a big and tall man simply walked into my office and introduced himself as Lloyd Jones who hails from Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada. I stood there shaking his hands as if struck by lightning and went blank.
The keraton of Sambas, royal family, continues to preserve its palace and other royal regalia. Sultan Tengah, the first and last sultan of Sarawak, founded the Sambas Sultanate. He was the younger brother of Sultan Jalilul Jabar of Brunei who challenged the throne. To solve his predicament, Sultan Abdul Jalil finally relented and anointed Tengah to be the Sultan of Sarawak, a rich province in the opposite end of Brunei city. Tengah brought with him a thousand followers and upon arriving in Sarawak, now Kuching, built a palace at Sungai Bedil, the present site of the Astana.
Being young and still a bachelor, the adventurous Tengah, sailed off to Johor to see his auntie. During a dance party a misunderstanding occurred and Tengah with his followers sailed home. However the prince encountered devastating storm and found himself in the Sukadana Sultanate, now Ketapang in West Kalimantan, Indonesia. They rescued by the sultan and took him to stay at his palace. Tengah made a big impression on the sultan so as to give one of his princesses’ hands for marriage.
After several years in Sukadana, Tengah was assigned to Sambas to be its founding sultan. The royal couple built their palace at the confluence of Sungai Sambas and Sungai….. When their prince, Pengiran Sulaiman reached the mature age of 25 years old, Sultan Tengah felt it was time to go home to Sarawak and sailed with some followers soon after. When they were about to enter the Sarawak River at Santubong, Sultan Tengah wanted to ease himself at Batu Buaya but was attacked and struck by one of his followers at the opportune moment when the sultan had taken off his talismans that gave his invincibility. Subsequently the people of Sarawak, led by Datu Patinggi and Datu Bandar, managed to get the royal body and gave him a proper burial at the foot of the legendary Mount Santubong which was a thriving port-city from the 7th to the 10th centuries.
In Search of Dracula of Bornneo
26 November 2008
Drs. Lisyawati hosted us a dinner of Tom Yam river prawn. What a surprise in the City of Dracula, you could find Thai food. It only proves that this Thai food is a global dish; several years ago I found many Thai restaurants in Paris and I orderd this “the hotter the better” soup.
After dinner everybody disappeared into their rooms. The new Orchardz Hotel provided satelite TV programmes, mostly Indonesian and free wifi access to Internet that I did not really expect to find in the jungle of Borneo. I got carried away surfing the internet and went to bed late.
The alarm in mobile phone failed; most probably I forgot to reset it. Somehow I woke up this in time for a quick breakfast and discovered the rest of members of the expedition were waiting for me. We checked out from the hotel and speeded off to Sambas, the furthest kingdom.
I joined Drs. Lisyawati and two of her staff in a 4-wheek Toyota Terrano while my others were in Ford Econovan. It was going to be a 6-hour drive and we planned to reach the old Kingdom of Sambas in the early afternoon. Pontianak, the City of Dracula, was already in the early morning traffic chaos of cars and motorcyles, like the small Honda Cubs. Not traffic rules here, it was the rule of the horns creating a cacophonous adn rioutous street scenes.
The only road to the kingdom of Sambas was not too bad; narrow and in several stretches there were potholes. Electricity line runs parrellel to the road. In fact the road runs along the coastline and tidal peat swamp almost all the way but there are endless row of villages of tiny houses. The swamp is ubiquitous and I felt it is drowning the life of the people. So not football fields or playgrounds to be found instead there are wet paddy fields. I felt sorry for the kids and young people.
After about an hour drive I lost sight of the van behind. Somehow Abdul Halim’s mobile phones sudenly worked; since our arrival our mobile phones failed to work despite having roaming capabilities. I told Abdul Halim our plan was meet in Sambas town for lunch and not to be tempted to stop at Mempawah, Singkawang and Pemangkat along the way.
We drove to the palace of the Kingdom of Sambas, a sultanate founded by the Sultan Tengah of Sarawak in the middle of the 17th century. It thrived to become one of the more important kingdoms in Borneo and to the Malays of Sarawak it ranked second only to Brunei. Except of some parts, the wooden palace is still in good condition situated at the confluence of Sambas and Spanduk Rivers. With many legends and the myth of a husband and a wife cannons that bore seven baby cannons it has been a very popular tourist attraction. Unlike in the palace and holy grave in Pontianak, here in Sambas there was no beggars. 
Mohamed Yahia & Sons has been a Borneo book specialist for over 30 years. It is going to the internet to market his books so that new and old customers can have access to the latest books on Borneo anywhere and anytime. At the same time anyone, anywhere and anytime can also promote their books on Borneo. It sells and buys any book on Borneo. It is conveniently located in Holiday Inn Hotel Kuching and can be reached by its website at http://mohdyahiasons.googlepages.com; telephone +6082 416928.
This is Jason Brooke and a friend who came to say hello to Sarawak and I. Jason is the grandson of Anthony Brooke, so he is great grandnephew of Sir Vyner Brooke, the last white rajahs of Sarawak. This was his first trip to the former kingdom of his ancestors and was so happy to be able to see the people and the state in person after hearing and reading so much about them.
My VSO teacher, David Hustler, came back after 40 years with a wife and a son. One of the place they visited was the headhunters' trail, far in the interior of the rainforest connecting the ulu Limbang and Baram. The Kayans in the past crossed over from the Baram River to the Limbang River making headhunting raids. The route was then called Penarikan, from the Malay word tarik, to pull; in this case they pulled or rather dragged their longboats over the watershed. Here they have reached a longhouse along the way.
This image is blurred by too much beer...
Why RWMF is so hot? I think it has some potent elements of mystical tribal rituals and the modern culture of wild parties. Even more tantalizing when performed at the foothill of Princess Santubong Moutain. Thousands from all over the world come here on an annual pilgrimage to worship the beautiful and powerful princess in the middle of a virgin forest, in the middle of the dark night with real thunder storm and rain and later bath themselves with the purifying mud ...and drunken with music, beer and tuak.
